Before You Start
You need to be physically near the router (on its Wi-Fi or plugged in by Ethernet) and know its admin login. The admin login is not your Wi-Fi password — it is a separate credential usually printed on a sticker under the router. If the sticker is gone, check your ISP account, or factory reset the router and use the default credentials.
Step 1: Find Your Router's Admin IP
Open any browser and type the router's IP into the address bar. The most common defaults:
| Router Brand / ISP | Admin URL | Default Login |
|---|---|---|
| Most routers | 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1 | admin / admin |
| Xfinity / Comcast | 10.0.0.1 | admin / password |
| Verizon Fios | 192.168.1.1 | admin / (sticker) |
| AT&T | 192.168.1.254 | (sticker) |
| TP-Link | tplinkwifi.net | admin / admin |
| Netgear | routerlogin.net | admin / password |
| ASUS | router.asus.com | admin / admin |
| Google Nest Wifi | Google Home app | Google account |
| Eero | Eero app | Account login |
If none of those work, on Windows run ipconfig in Command Prompt and look at "Default Gateway". On macOS open System Settings → Network → Wi-Fi → Details → TCP/IP and read "Router".
Step 2: Sign In and Find Wireless Settings
Log in with the admin credentials. The Wi-Fi password setting is usually under a menu named Wireless, Wi-Fi, or WLAN. On most routers you will see two sub-sections: 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz (and on Wi-Fi 6E/7, a 6 GHz band). If both bands share the same network name (SSID), you only change the password once. If they are on separate SSIDs, change each one.
Look for a field labeled Password, Pre-Shared Key, WPA Key, or Passphrase.
Step 3: Choose a Strong Password
- At least 12 characters — ideally 16 or more
- Mix of letters, numbers, and symbols
- Avoid dictionary words, addresses, and phone numbers
- Use a passphrase like "correct-horse-battery-staple-42" if you need to remember it
- Store it in a password manager so you don't need to type it again
While you are there, set the security type to WPA3 if supported, or WPA2-AES (sometimes called WPA2-PSK [AES]) otherwise. Never use WEP or WPA (original). See WPA3 vs WPA2 for details.
Step 4: Save and Reconnect Every Device
Click Save or Apply. The router will briefly drop Wi-Fi — expect 10-30 seconds of downtime. Every device will disconnect and prompt for the new password. You will need to re-enter it on:
- Phones, tablets, laptops
- Smart TVs, streaming sticks, game consoles
- Smart speakers (Alexa, Google Home, HomePod)
- Smart plugs, bulbs, thermostats, doorbells, cameras
- Printers and network storage
If an older smart device refuses to connect, check whether it only supports 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi and make sure that band is still enabled with the same new password.
Should You Also Change the Network Name (SSID)?
Only if you want every device to re-pair from scratch. Changing just the password is faster. Changing the SSID is useful if you want to force a clean re-setup (after moving, for example) or if the old name was identifying (your name, apartment number, etc.).
What If You Forgot the Admin Password?
Hold the router's recessed Reset button for 10-30 seconds until lights flash. This restores factory defaults — the admin login returns to the sticker value, but the Wi-Fi network also resets, so you will need to reconfigure both SSID and Wi-Fi password. See our router factory reset guide for the full procedure.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to restart the router after changing the Wi-Fi password?
No. Saving the new password applies immediately. Connected devices are kicked off and prompted to reconnect with the new password.
Will changing my Wi-Fi password make my internet faster?
Only indirectly. It removes unauthorized devices that were sharing your bandwidth. If no one was leeching, the speed impact is zero.
How often should I change my Wi-Fi password?
No set schedule. Change it when someone moves out, after sharing it widely (house guests, Airbnb), or if you see unknown devices in your router's connected-devices list.